I’m sure many of you are decorating and getting ready for the holidays and I would like to remind you of the dangers of for our pets during the holidays. Remember to think of pet holiday safety just like you would for a small child. Dogs and cats are curious of shinny objects, lights, tinsel, ornaments, and the Christmas tree itself whether it is a live or artificial tree. Many cats like to climb a tree just like if they were outside and dogs will check the trees out also. If they chew on the tree or lights that can be very serious. You can train a pet to stay away from the tree and other decorations. That is done the same way as you would teach them the “leave it” command. Christmas plants are also dangerous for our pets so if you love to decorate your homes with poinsettias, holly and mistletoe you need to take caution with these toxic plants and keep them away from your pets. If you see any evidence these plants have been chewed on, call your veterinarian immediately for further instructions. I have a list of poisonous plants on my website if you would like to check out other toxic items for animals. https://www.pawsitivewellnesscenter.com/pet-safety.html Many foods are also dangerous for your pets like chocolate, Xytilol, raisins and more. Chocolate, Coffee and Caffeine all contain substances called methylxanthines, which are found in cacao seeds, the fruit of the plant used to make coffee, and in the nuts of an extract used in some sodas. When ingested by pets, methylxanthines can cause vomiting and diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst and urination, hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures and even death. Note that darker chocolate is more dangerous than milk chocolate. White chocolate has the lowest level of methylxanthines, while baking chocolate contains the highest. Alcoholic beverages and food products containing alcohol can cause vomiting, diarrhea, decreased coordination, central nervous system depression, difficulty breathing, tremors, abnormal blood acidity, coma and even death. Under no circumstances should your pet be given any alcohol. If you suspect that your pet has ingested alcohol, contact your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center immediately or go to your local emergency veterinarian hospital. When you call ASPECA (888) 426-4435. it can take longer to get the information and that time can be important with many poisonous substances. Xylitol is used as a sweetener in many products, including gum, candy, baked goods and toothpaste. It can cause insulin release in most species, which can lead to liver failure. The increase in insulin leads to hypoglycemia (lowered sugar levels). Initial signs of toxicosis include vomiting, lethargy and loss of coordination. Signs can progress to seizures. Elevated liver enzymes and liver failure can be seen within a few days. Nuts, including almonds, pecans, and walnuts, contain high amounts of oils and fats. The fats can cause vomiting and diarrhea, and potentially pancreatitis in pets. Macadamia nuts can cause weakness, depression, vomiting, tremors and hyperthermia in dogs. Signs usually appear within 12 hours of ingestion and can last approximately 12 to 48 hours. Milk and dairy products are not good for our pets either Because pets do not possess significant amounts of lactase (the enzyme that breaks down lactose in milk), milk and other dairy-based products cause them diarrhea or other digestive upset. The alternative to cows milk is goats milk for it doesn’t contain lactase so the animals are able to break it down and actually benefit from the healthy nutrients especially goat milk kefir. We love to buy our pets presents but be cautious with so many dog toys and treats on the market, it’s hard to know what to choose and to find healthy and safe gifts for our dogs. One of the main concerns is toxins in plastic and one of the prime examples are BPA’s If you are planning to buy toys for your pets, it would be good to use toys made of non-toxic, ‘baby safe' materials that are durable and made of natural materials. The most dangerous toys are the cheap, plastic ones made in China, where the absence of regulations poses a serious danger to your pet’s health. Watch for toys that have pieces that can be broken off and swallowed.
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I just attended an online webinar on animal wellness and learned so much. I was most impressed by Dr. Jean Dodds on thyroid conditions in our animals. One of the most common endocrine diseases of dogs is Autoimmune Thyroiditis/ hypothyroidism. For older cats the most common endocrine disease is Hyperthyroidism. One of the main causes of this condition is the role of soy and excess iodine in foods. Some common signs of the disease are behavioral issues, subtle weight gain and recurring infections. Dr. Dodds is also an advocate of feeding the Species Appropriate Raw Diet. A major concern with thyroid conditions in our dogs is related to the use collars worn for walking our dogs since the collar when pulled on during the walk rides directly on the thyroid area and puts pressure on that gland. This is something to avoid for the safety of the neck and thyroid. Dog CollarsAnother presenter dog trainer, Alecia Evans, discussed the issue of using any collar on our dogs while walking with them. We do need to have a collar on our dogs to hold pet ID information including chip numbers & contact information. I have research using collars for walking and tried many different types of collars to keep the dog from pulling during the walk. I have found a harness to be more effective to reduce pulling over the other collars (see illus. below). I did like Alecia's information on the harness she developed over years of training because it doesn’t confine the dogs shoulder movement which is a concern with many harnesses that clip in the front with a strap crossing the chest. This type of harness does confine the shoulder movement of the dog and can cause shoulder issues over time. The harness doesn't affect the thyroid gland either. I want to pass this along if anyone is concerned about their dogs neck being damaged from pulling with a collar. If interested check out her website. I have no interest in the purchase of the harness. I just feel it is a great tool for walking our dogs safely.
March is Poison Awareness Month so let's be cautious with our pets!
Are you aware of all the poisonous plants to your pets that are in your surroundings and food? Created by Proflowers.
This is excellent information and a must read for pet parent to have safer happier pet. I love to have reinforcement from Dr. Becker on what I have been telling people about these 5 items that are dangerous to your pet and even some to the parents.
By Dr. Becker
Taking excellent care of your canine family member means paying attention to small things — things you might not even realize need to be cleaned or repaired or discarded. Veterinary journal dvm360 offers some great tips on dog-related supplies you probably need to “trash right now” for the sake of your dog’s health and well-being (and yours). 5 Things Most Dog Parents Need to Toss Right Now 1.Toss this: Retractable leash “Leash” is probably not a good word to describe the thin cord used in many retractable devices. In addition, the real purpose of using a leash to walk a dog is to keep the animal safe and under the owner’s control. Retractable leashes often do the opposite unless you have a perfectly trained dog. There are many reasons to avoid or reconsider use of a retractable leash, starting with the fact that on this type of leash, your dog can get far enough away from you to either get into trouble or into harm’s way. Retractable leashes are also responsible for many injuries to both dogs and dog walkers — from superficial burns and cuts to horrific amputations. In most cases, these devices are also wholly counterproductive to training a dog to walk politely on lead. The very nature of retractables trains dogs to pull on the leash to extend the lead. Needless to say, this pulling behavior will be repeated whenever the dog is on a standard leash. Replace with this: 6-foot flat leash 2.Toss this: Plastic food and water bowl Plastic food and water bowls are inexpensive and convenient. Unfortunately, not only are they impossible to thoroughly sanitize, but as the plastic begins to break down, it can leach toxic chemicals into your dog’s food and water. In addition, bacteria and oils can get trapped in the peeling plastic, which can cause skin irritation or worse. Some dogs can develop an allergy to the materials and dyes in plastic bowls, and they’ve also been linked to tear staining. In addition, aggressive chewers have been known to gnaw their bowls into small pieces and swallow them. Replace with this: Stainless steel, porcelain or glass food and water bowls 3.Toss this: Old, stinky and ill-fitting collar Your dog’s collar is a little like your underwear. He wears it all the time, and it’s very close to his skin. And while most people wouldn’t think of wearing the same underwear day in and day out without ever washing or replacing it, many dogs’ collars never get washed or replaced. It’s important to keep your pet’s collar clean to reduce the risk it will cause an infection or hot spot on his skin. Old, faded collars, those with an unpleasant odor and collars that have either grown too tight or too loose, need to go. Replace with this: New collar 4.Toss this: Dull nail trimmers Nail trims are never the highlight of a dog’s day, but one thing that can make a bad situation worse is a pair of dull clippers. If the cutting surface isn’t sharp, instead of a quick clean snip, the trimmers can crush and split the nail. Not only is this uncomfortable or even painful for your dog, but it tends to make you — the human at the other end of the clippers — tense up. Your dog, in turn, picks up on your stress, which doubles hers. In a worst-case scenario, a nail trim marred by dull trimmers can make your dog run from the room every time they come out. Soon, your canine pal has talons instead of nails. Replace with this: Freshly sharpened or new nail trimmers, or a battery-operated rotary tool (e.g., a Dremel) Watch me demonstrate how to trim a dog’s nails in the video below:
5.Toss this: Broken or chewed up toys
Many dogs are toy slayers. And unfortunately, it’s easy for your dog to bite off a piece of a toy or remove the stuffing and swallow it. If he does this out of your sight, you might not even know he’s walking around with a foreign object in his gastrointestinal (GI) tract. With any luck, the toy piece will leave your dog’s body whole when he poops or throws up. However, if it lodges in his throat or GI tract, it can become a life-threatening situation requiring expensive surgery to remove. It’s a good idea to review the contents your dog’s toy basket on a regular basis and get rid of anything that could pose a choking hazard or GI obstruction. I also recommend avoiding potentially toxic toys. Replace with this: Repaired or new non-toxic toys As your dog’s guardian and advocate, it’s your job to keep her safe and healthy. The five items listed above are potential hazards that many pet parents never even think about. I want to post this great article from Rodney Habib, Pet Nutrition Blogger, about the dog rawhide. I haven't fed them to my dogs in years since I read about all the chemicals in the rawhide and also that the animal can't digest this substance. This can block the digestive tract and that could entail surgery. The dogs orthodontist also told me rawhides were dangerous because they can crack or break teeth and the cost to cap a tooth is at least $1000.
By Rodney Habib How can one of the most popular chew sticks on the planet be so dangerous for your pets, you ask? I mean, most dogs chew on rawhide for hours on end, and not only does it keep them busy, but they seem to last forever. Well if you understood what it took to make this toxic “raw” leather stick, you would quickly understand what the problem is. Aside from the horror stories circulating all over social media these days, of pets needing emergency surgery after consuming rawhide, the majority of pet parents today, especially the newbies, believe that this chew is some sort of dried up meat stick. Let me debunk that myth right away! A rawhide stick is not the by-product of the beef industry nor is it made of dehydrated meat. Rather, rawhide is the by-product of the “Leather Industry”, so theoretically it is a leather chew. Sounds awesome, right? “Producing rawhide begins with the splitting of an animal hide, usually from cattle. The top grain is generally tanned and made into leather products, while the inner portion, in its “raw” state, goes to the dogs.” TheBark.com So, how does this leather, which is conveniently rolled up into pretty shapes, actually get made into those rawhide chews? Follow along my friends and I will enlighten you on how this hide travels through a leathery process where it transforms from hide to a not-so beautiful, colorful, chew stick. Here is a paraphrased tutorial that was explained by the whole dog journal several years back: STEP 1: Normally, cattle hides are shipped from slaughterhouses to tanneries for processing. These hides are then treated with a chemical bath to help “preserve” the product during transport to help prevent spoilage. (No one wants to purchase a black, spoiled rawhide stick!) Once at the tannery: the hides are soaked and treated with either an ash-lye solution or a highly toxic recipe of sodium sulphide liming. This process will help strip the hair and fat that maybe attached to the hides themselves. (No, no one wants to see a hairy hide…) Next on this glorious journey, these hides are then treated with chemicals that help “puff” the hide, making it easier to split into layers. The outer layer of the hide is used for goods like car seats, clothing, shoes, purses, etc. But, it’s the inner layer that is needed to make the rawhide. (Oh and other things like gelatin, cosmetics, and glue as well!) STEP 2: Now that we have the inner layer of the hide, it’s time to go to the post-tannery stage! Hides are washed and whitened using a solution of hydrogen peroxide and/or bleach; this will also help remove the smell of the rotten or putrid leather. Bonus! (Research also shows that other chemicals maybe used here to help the whitening process if the bleach isn’t strong enough.) STEP 3: Now it’s time to make these whitened sheets of this “leathery by-product” look delicious! So, here is where the artistic painting process comes in. “Basted, smoked, and decoratively tinted products might be any color (or odor) underneath the coating of (often artificial) dyes and flavors. They can even be painted with a coating of titanium oxide to make them appear white and pretty on the pet store shelves.” - whole-dog-journal.com “…the Material Safety Data Sheet reveals a toxic confection containing the carcinogen FD&C Red 40, along with preservatives like sodium benzoate. But tracking the effects of chemical exposure is nearly impossible when it’s a matter of slow, low-dose poisoning.”– thebark.com Ok, now that these hides have been painted, it’s time for the final process. STEP 4: Getting it to last forever! Because the FDA does not consider these chews to be food, really it’s a free for all when it comes to the manufacturers of these leather strips, and the products they may want to add to these chews, to get them to last forever. Any sort of glue can be added here to get these bad boys to never come apart. When tested: Lead, arsenic, mercury, chromium salts, formaldehyde, and other toxic chemicals have been detected in raw hides. So it’s safe to say that any sort of glues can be used as well! Finally, it’s time to package and attach all the glorious marketing labels to the product. Check out the fine print warning that’s attached with some of these rawhides: “Choking or blockages. If your dog swallows large pieces of rawhide, the rawhide can get stuck in the esophagus or other parts of the digestive tract. Sometimes, abdominal surgery is needed to remove them from the stomach or intestines. If it isn’t resolved, a blockage can lead to death.“ (Oh, how lovely…) And there it is! It’s now ready to be shipped to store shelves where it can be purchased for our loving animal companions. How do proactive veterinarians feel about these chews? Here is world-renowned veterinarian Doctor Karen Becker's take on the matter: “The name ‘rawhide’ is technically incorrect. A more accurate name would be processed-hide, because the skin isn’t raw at all. But the term “rawhide” has stuck. Rawhide chews start out hard, but as your dog works the chew it becomes softer, and eventually he can unknot the knots on each end and the chew takes on the consistency of a slimy piece of taffy or bubble gum. And by that time your dog cannot stop working it -- it becomes almost addictive. At this point, there’s no longer any dental benefit to the chew because it has turned soft and gooey, and, in fact, it has become a choking and intestinal obstruction hazard.“ P.S. Ready for the jaw dropper? An investigation by Humane Society International stated in their report, “In a particularly grisly twist, the skins of brutally slaughtered dogs in Thailand are mixed with other bits of skin to produce rawhide chew toys for pet dogs. Manufacturers told investigators that these chew toys are regularly exported to and sold in U.S. stores.” –dogingtonpost.com Rodney Habib - Pet Nutrition Blogger Meeting people is not that easy, but it’s harder for both you and your dog. After all, it’s good for your four-legged pal to interact with members of his or her own species, but everyone has to get along.
It isn't easy if the dogs get along but you don’t really get along with the owner, that’s going to be a pretty boring play date for the humans. And it’s just as bad if you’re friendly with someone but the dogs spend the entire time barking and growling — or just have very different energy levels. Still, don't give up because it can be challenging, so here are several ways you can make dog acquaintances and eventually find a few great friends for your dogs and you. Many times walking in your neighborhood will bring out other dogs on their walk. It is best to find people that you know so you know how their dogs have been cared for. Dog Parks Usually this one can be obvious, but there are some things to consider. My vet told me that the dog park is the not very safe place to take your dog because there can be a lot of contagious diseases there. Many people go to the dog park because they don't really want to walk their dogs and don't watch them. They might not be taking very good care of their dogs either. I have seen many fights at dag parks when the parents are watching their dogs and this can cause serious injuries. If you watch your dogs and know the people the dogs can enjoy the visit. Go to the Pet Store While most owners don’t bring their dogs with them to the pet store all of the time, many do it at least from time to time, so there’s a definite opportunity here to meet people and their dogs. Of all the options, though, this is probably the least natural. Many times the staff can also be helpful and friendly so that will help your dog socialize with other people. Join a Rescue or Volunteer Want to meet other people who love and have dogs? A rescue or other type of dog volunteer organization can be a wonderful way to meet like-minded people in an environment that’s conducive to getting to know each other. Just be cautious about the canines. While most rescue dogs are completely harmless, there are some that may be suffering from behavioral problems due to their past experiences they’ve had, and you need to know what you’re getting your dog — and yourself — into. I have read many articles about the dangers of retractable leashes but none have talked about the neck damage to the dog. Most were concerned with injuries caused by the leash snapping back and injuring a dog or person or the leash not retracting fast enough and the dog attacks another animal or gets into the street where danger lurks. This is another big concern why the retractable leash shouldn't even be manufacturered. They are not good from a training aspect either. By Dr. Dobias Today, I would like to focus on another device that is a common source of injuries - a retractable leash. Most people do not think twice about them. They appear to give a dog more freedom, especially when they have to be on a leash. But do not be mistaken, when it comes to dogs retractable leashes can cause serious damage. Let us move away from dogs and give you a human example.
Pretend to be a dog for a moment. You put a collar on your neck and attach a retractable leash to it. You ask a friend to hold the leash handle and instruct her to press the “brake button” when you start running. Jerk!!!! Bang! Your neck gets yanked on big time. Your thyroid gland suffers a trauma from the sudden jerk. If you are lucky, you will suffer no injuries, repeat this many times and a severe injury is inevitable. When it comes to dogs and retractable leashes, there are two main issues. The jerk at the end of the leash or the “leash brake” can severely damage your dogs’s neck and the thyroid gland. Even if your dog is gentle, doesn’t run to the end of the leash and you never use the brake, the spring loaded leash always applies pressure on your dog’s neck and throat. I trust that it is not the intention of retractable leash manufacturers to cause damage. I believe that they never thought of this when making their design. However, I feel the responsibility to tell you that I have seen serious problems caused by retractable leashes from hypothyroidism to damage to the nerves that results in Paw Licking in Dogs. To summarize, the best way to protect your dog’s most sensitive region, the neck, is to use a front or side clip harness and a light, shock-absorbing leash made of natural materials. By Dr. Becker
Just like two-legged members of the family, sometimes pets have little accidents around the house, yard, or neighborhood. When a dog or cat acquires a minor injury, many pet owners don’t realize there may be a quick fix as close as the kitchen or bathroom cabinet. 8 Quick Tips for Treating Minor Pet Injuries and Illnesses
Sitting/lying down/exposing underside: appeasing/deferent dog lowers body posture, exposing vulnerable parts Turning head away, averting eyes: appeasing/deferent dog avoids eye contact, exposes neck Avoidance Dog turns away; shuts down; evades handler’s touch and treats. Brow Ridges Furrows or muscle ridges in the dog’s forehead and around the eyes. Difficulty Learning Dogs are unable to learn well or easily when under significant stress. Digestive Disturbances Vomiting and diarrhea can be a sign of illness – or of stress; the digestive system reacts strongly to stress. Carsickness is often a stress reaction. Displacement Behaviors These are behaviors performed in an effort to resolve an internal stress conflict for the dog. They may be observed in a dog who is stressed and in isolation – for example a dog left alone in an exam room in a veterinary hospital – differentiating them from behaviors related to relationship. Blinking: Eyes blink at a faster-than normal rate Nose-Licking: Dog’s tongue flicks out once or multiple times Chattering teeth Scratching Shaking off (as if wet, but dog is dry) Yawning Drooling May be an indication of stress – or response to the presence of food, an indication of a mouth injury, or digestive distress. Excessive Grooming Dog may lick or chew paws, legs, flank, tail, and genital areas, even to the point of self-mutilation. Hyperactivity Frantic behavior, pacing, sometimes misinterpreted as ignoring, “fooling around,” or “blowing off” owner. Immune System Disorders Long-term stress weakens the immune system. Immune related problems can improve when overall levels of stress are reduced. Lack of Attention/Focus The brain has difficulty processing information when stressed. Leaning/Clinging The stressed dog seeks contact with human as reassurance. Lowered Body Posture “Slinking,” acting “guilty,” or “sneaky” (all misinterpretations of dog body language) can be indicators of stress. Mouthing Willingness to use mouth on human skin – can be puppy exploration or adult poor manners, but can also be an expression of stress, ranging from gentle nibbling (flea biting) to hard taking of treats, to painfully hard mouthing, snapping, or biting. Obsessive-Compulsive Disorders These include compulsive imaginary fly-snapping behavior, light- and shadow-chasing, tail-chasing, pica (eating nonfood objects), flank-sucking, self-mutilation, and more. While OCDs probably have a strong genetic component, the behavior itself is usually triggered by stress. Panting Rapid shallow or heavy breathing is normal if the dog is warm or has been exercising, otherwise can be stress-related. Stress may be external (environment) or internal (pain, other medical issues). Stretching
To relax stress-related tension in muscles. May also occur as a non-stress behavior after sleeping or staying in one place for extended period. Stiff Movement Tension can cause a noticeable stiffness in leg, body, and tail movements. Sweaty Paws Damp footprints can be seen on floors, exam tables, rubber mats. By Dr. Becker
Sunday, June 21st is the first day of summer this year, and after a particularly long cold winter in many parts of the US, I know we’re all looking forward to sunshine, warmer temperatures, and getting outdoors. As enjoyable as this time of year is though, it’s important to play it safe when it comes to fun in the sun for furry family members. Our dogs have a higher body temp than we do, and less ability to cool down. Humans are covered with sweat glands, but a dog's are confined to her nose and the pads of her feet. An overheating dog can only regulate her body temperature through panting, which isn’t terribly efficient in hot weather. In a very short period of time, an overheated dog can suffer critical damage to her brain, heart, liver and nervous system. Recognizing the Signs of Overheating in Your Pet Heatstroke -- the ultimate and often deadly result of overheating -- is caused by a dangerous elevation in an animal's body temperature. While it most often occurs in dogs left in cars during the summer months, it can also happen in late spring and the first weeks of summer if a pet is exposed to high temperatures before he or she has acclimated to the heat. Symptoms of overheating include: Heavy panting or rapid breathing Elevated body temperature Excessive thirst Weakness, collapse Glazed eyes Increased pulse and heartbeat Vomiting, bloody diarrhea Seizures Bright or dark red tongue, gums Excessive drooling Staggering, stumbling Unconsciousness In addition to hot vehicles, other contributors to pet overheating include humid conditions, lack of drinking water, obesity, and overexertion. Some pets are at higher risk for heat-related illness than others, including brachycephalic breeds (dogs and cats with flat faces and short noses), older pets, puppies and kittens, animals that are ill or have a chronic health condition, pets not used to warm weather, and any pet left outside in hot weather. Tips for Keeping Your Pet Safe in the Heat 1. Never, ever leave your pet alone in a parked car on a warm day. Not even for a minute. On a warm day, the temperature inside your vehicle can rise quickly into the danger zone. For example, on an 85-degree day it takes only 10 minutes for the temperature inside your parked car to climb to 102 degrees. In a half hour, it can hit 120 degrees. Leaving windows cracked doesn’t drop the temperature inside the vehicle. Leaving your car running with the air conditioner on is dangerous for a whole host of reasons. Leaving a pet unattended in a vehicle in extreme heat or cold is a criminal act in several states and municipalities. Most statutes have rescue provisions that allow certain individuals – for example police officers, firefighters, animal control officers, store employees -- to do whatever is necessary to rescue an animal trapped in a vehicle in extreme temperatures. On summer days, it’s best to leave your pet home where she can stay cool, hydrated, and safe. 2. Don't walk or exercise your pet on hot pavement. This can be a tricky one to remember (unless you’re in the habit of walking your dog barefoot), but it’s extremely important. Not only can pavement on a hot day burn your dog’s paws, but the heat rising from concrete or asphalt can quickly overheat an animal that lives close to the ground. Also don't allow your pet to stand, walk or rest on hot outdoor surfaces like sidewalks or parking lots. 3. Exercise your dog during the coolest parts of the day. In most locations, this means early in the morning or after sunset. Try to stay in the shade during daylight hours, and no matter the time of day, don't overdo outdoor exercise or play sessions. Even on an overcast day or in the evening, a long period of physical exertion in hot weather can cause heatstroke in your dog. A good rule of thumb is if outdoor temps hit 90 degrees, your pet should be indoors where it's cool. 4. Provide plenty of fresh clean drinking water at all times. In addition to overheating, your pet can become dehydrated very rapidly in warm weather. A good general guideline is that a healthy dog should drink between ½ and 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight each day. And if she’ll be outside for any length of time, she should have access to complete shade. Periodically encourage her to play in the sprinkler or gently hose her down with cool water to prevent overheating. Attention City Dwellers with Cats: Beware of Feline High Rise Syndrome While overheating is less of a problem for cats than dogs (because kitties tend to find a nice cool napping spot on hot days), during the warmer months of the year more than a few city dwelling cats fall from open windows and fire escapes to the ground below. This is known as Feline High Rise Syndrome, and it can have devastating consequences. Well-intentioned cat guardians who live in tall buildings often allow their kitties to sun themselves in open windows and on fire escapes. It sounds safe enough, however, the feline prey drive can lead a cat to try to pounce on moving birds or insects. Falls from tall buildings often result in shattered jaws, punctured lungs, broken limbs, and even death. A few facts about High Rise Syndrome: · When a cat falls from a high perch it's unintentional, not deliberate. Cats are smart. They don't leap from high places because they know it's dangerous. · The reason cats fall is usually because they are intensely focused on something outside, perhaps a bird, and either lose their balance or their prey instinct sends them out the window before they realize what they're doing. Another cause of falls is normal muscle twitching and other movement during deep sleep. A kitty can roll off a windowsill while changing sleep positions. · While cats won't intentionally jump from a high perch, they also don't realize they can't dig their claws into brick, concrete, or steel surfaces to help prevent a fall if they lose their balance. · When a cat falls from a high perch, he doesn't land squarely on all fours. He lands with his feet slightly apart, which is how serious head and pelvic injuries occur. And falling shorter distances can actually be more dangerous, because kitty doesn't have enough time to adjust his body to land correctly. · Even if your cat survives a fall in relatively good condition, she'll land in an unfamiliar, frightening place on a sidewalk or street and can easily run away before you can get to her. |
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