The "Cute" Little Habit That Can Sicken Your Pet - Or Worse
By Dr. Becker For some reason, many dogs and even cats enjoy licking lotions and other types of topical products off their human’s skin. In fact, one of my dogs tends to wait by the bathroom door, hoping he’ll get a chance to sample whatever I’ve applied to my skin after my shower. (That’s one of the reasons I use all organic body products.) And dogs seem especially intent on having a lick if the product has a yummy smell, for example, vanilla scented body lotion or coconut oil-based products. Unfortunately, this seemingly harmless little habit so many pets indulge in can be cause for concern depending on what you’ve put on your skin. The following are products you definitely don’t want your dog, cat, bird, or other animal companion licking off you and ingesting. Over-the-Counter Topical Products Dangerous to Pets · Personal care products. The majority of personal care products, including soaps and body washes, toothpastes, moisturizing lotions, sunscreens, self-tanners, shampoos, conditioners, deodorants, antiperspirants, make-up, and other cosmetics, contain potentially toxic chemicals. Not only can they cause GI upset if ingested by your pet, they can also affect your own health. Creams containing hydrocortisone. These are steroid-based formulations typically used to control itching. If your pet ingests a product containing hydrocortisone, it can cause increased thirst and urination, panting, vomiting and diarrhea. Ointments, lotions and creams containing antibiotics. Commonly called “triple-antibiotic” products, these are applied to cuts, scrapes, scratches, and other types of breaks in the skin. If ingested by your pet, they can cause stomach upset. Antifungal creams. These are used to treat athlete’s foot, vaginal yeast infections, “jock itch,” and nail fungus. They can cause vomiting and diarrhea if ingested by your pet. Products containing zinc oxide. These are typically diaper rash ointments and creams, and calamine lotion used to treat poison ivy. Zinc oxide can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs. Bloody vomit or diarrhea should prompt a call to your veterinarian, since it indicates the zinc oxide has damaged your pet’s GI tract, potentially requiring treatment. Muscle rub creams. Many of these products contain salicylates, which are aspirin-like compounds that if ingested by your pet can cause vomiting with or without blood, as well as stomach ulcers. Some muscle rub products may contain other problem ingredients, like menthol or capsaicin, which is an active component of chili peppers. Minoxidil, brand name Rogaine. This is a hair regrowth product, but its original use was as a blood pressure medication. Pets who ingest minoxidil can show initial symptoms of vomiting and lethargy, progressing to a build-up of fluid in the lungs, and ultimately, heart failure. Certainly you’ll want to keep your pet a safe distance away if you have this product in your home. Prescription Topical Products Dangerous to Pets · Prescription steroid-based creams. These are typically prescribed for itchy skin conditions when over-the-counter products aren’t working. Common topical steroids include betamethasone, clobetasone, clobetasol, hydrocortisone, methylprednisone, mometasone, and triamcinolone. If ingested, these products can cause the same symptoms in your pet as OTC preparations (increased thirst and urination, panting, vomiting, and diarrhea), but for a longer period of time. Hormone creams. Topical creams containing hormones such as estrogen, progesterone, or testosterone can be absorbed through your pet’s skin in addition to being ingested. These compounds are endocrine disruptors that can cause changes such as mammary gland enlargement, and in sterilized females, signs of estrus and false pregnancy. Anti-inflammatory pain medication creams. These compounded creams (Flurbiprofen is a common one) are typically prescribed for topical relief of arthritis. Just a tiny ingested amount of Flurbiprofen can cause kidney failure in cats. Vitamin A compounds. These are called retinoids, and they’re prescribed to treat acne. Ingestion by a pet can cause stomach upset and in pregnant animals, birth defects in developing fetuses. Calcipotriene, brand name Dovonex. This is a prescription ointment containing vitamin D used to treat psoriasis. Just a small amount of this ointment can be fatal to both dogs and cats; it also causes vomiting and kidney failure. 5-fluorouracil, brand names 5-FU and Efudex. This prescription lotion is used to treat a condition called solar keratosis, which is precancerous sun damage, as well as skin cancer in humans. If ingested by your pet, it can cause uncontrollable seizures, bloody vomiting, and diarrhea, and bone marrow suppression. This is an incredibly dangerous product to use around animals, as the majority who ingest it cannot be saved. 5 Tips for Keeping Your Pet Safe from Topical Products 1. Prevent your pet from licking after you’ve applied any product to your skin. Even if you use primarily organic, non-toxic products, it’s best to consistently discourage licking to keep your pet safe in all situations. 2. Allow all topical products to dry or soak in completely – or cover the area of application --- before having contact with your pet. 3. Never apply a topical product meant for humans to your pet without first talking with your veterinarian. 4. After applying any topical drug, over-the-counter or prescription, wash your hands thoroughly before handling your pet. Store all such products well away from your pet. 5. Contact your vet or an emergency veterinary clinic immediately if you suspect your pet may have ingested or come in contact with a potentially harmful topical product.
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Let's talk about cats!
With cats... ultimately, you will hear many things from many people about cats and oils. Here's my take: Cats lack an enzyme called glucuronyl transferase. This is important for the Cytochrome p450 liver metabolism pathway. This makes cats very susceptible to ALL kinds of toxicity, including plant, NSAIDS (like aspirin, ibuprofen and Tylenol), chocolate and caffeine (methylxanthines), lead, zinc, and many, many types of pesticides. So which oils do you stay away from? Most certified pure essential oils are so pure that you can use them topically on cats sporadically in a highly diluted form (as if for infants). It's not a good idea to use them topically or internally on your cat every single day (with the exception of helichrysum, lavender and Frankincense). The oils to stay away from and use something different if you can are the oils that are high in phenols and eugenols as far as direct application (topical or internal) to your cat (the oils high in phenols are basil, birch, cinnamon, clove, fennel, melaleuca, oregano, peppermint, thyme, and wintergreen.) As far as diffusion - I diffuse everything! I just make sure not to diffuse anything in my kitty's room (where her food and litterbox are) and make sure she's not "locked" in the room with the diffuser - she will go away if it's one she doesn't like or need. The main thing is, don't give oils to cats topically or internally every day (with some exceptions), dilute them, only use certified pure essential oils, and when in doubt, feel free to ask! By Dr. Becker Just like two-legged members of the family, sometimes pets have little accidents around the house, yard, or neighborhood. When a dog or cat acquires a minor injury, many pet owners don’t realize there may be a quick fix as close as the kitchen or bathroom cabinet. 8 Quick Tips for Treating Minor Pet Injuries and Illnesses
I have read this before and it is great to know. I also read to make sure the Hydrogen Peroxide was a fresh unopened bottle for the best effect. It is recommended to have a small unopened bottle of Hydrogen Peroxide in your pet first aid kit with a teaspoon measuring spoon for emergencies.
Today's topic is a lovely one – how to make your pet throw up! By Dr. Karen Becker I realize it sounds like a terrible subject, but I actually get the question quite often at my Natural Pet animal hospital. A lot of clients want to know, 'How and when do I make my dog throw up' if I think he's swallowed something dangerous? If this isn't something you've ever considered, my opinion is it's better to be safe than sorry. It's better to have the knowledge before or if you need it, rather than need it and not have it in the middle of a crisis with your beloved companion. If you do happen to have a dog or cat prone to sampling weird stuff around your house or yard, view this video so you'll know exactly what you need to do in an emergency, which will include having hydrogen peroxide on hand to induce vomiting. Should I Automatically Make My Pet Throw Up, No Matter What? Let's say you actually see your dog or cat consuming something she shouldn't. Do you automatically induce vomiting? Not necessarily. An animal might, for example, come up the stairs from the basement with something in his mouth. Or maybe you see your dog in the yard or behind the garage chewing on something. Sometimes kitties consume houseplants. You might see chew or tooth marks on a plant, or notice some of the leaves looked stripped or shredded. You don't necessarily need to induce vomiting in these situations, depending on the circumstances. When Should You NOT Induce Vomiting? Circumstances in which you should not make your pet throw up include: · When he's already throwing up. Don't induce more vomiting in an already vomiting animal, because you can incite a worse vomition response. · If your pet has lost consciousness and/or if she's very weak or has trouble standing. Do not induce vomiting in this situation because aspiration pneumonia, which can result when an animal inhales vomit into its lungs, can become a secondary problem. · If your pet has swallowed bleach, a drain cleaner, or a petroleum distillate. These chemicals can cause burning as they are swallowed, and secondary additional burns as they come back up. Don't induce vomiting if your pet has swallowed a caustic substance. · If it has been over two hours since your pet ingested a potential toxin. Once a substance enters your pet's small intestine, vomiting will not clear the stomach of that toxin. Inducing vomiting in a dog or cat that has already digested a potential toxin won't be effective in ridding her body of the substance. When Should You Absolutely Induce Vomiting? · When your pet has consumed antifreeze within the last two hours. · When you've called your veterinarian, discussed the specific circumstances around your pet's swallowing a potential toxin, and your vet instructs you to induce vomiting. Hydrogen Peroxide to Induce Vomiting I recommend (and probably your own veterinarian will as well) the only substance you use at home to make your pet throw up is hydrogen peroxide. I'm talking about three percent hydrogen peroxide – the kind you purchase at any pharmacy. Do not use the stronger, concentrated peroxide found in hair color, use only the three percent kind. The dose is one teaspoon (five milliliters, or cc's) for every 10 pounds of body weight. The hydrogen peroxide must be given orally to your pet. At my clinic, especially if the patient is a dog, we mix it with a little vanilla ice cream to make it palatable. I don't advocate feeding ice cream to dogs, of course, but in a situation where it's necessary to make a pet vomit, hydrogen peroxide hidden in sugary ice cream usually gets gobbled up with no argument. You can also try using a little bit of honey if there's no ice cream on hand. Sometimes, however, we just syringe the stuff down an animal's throat. With kitty patients, it's usually easier and more effective to syringe it. If your pet is a dog, after you get the hydrogen peroxide down, you should walk her around for a few minutes to get her moving, which will help the hydrogen peroxide do its work. Cats, of course, are a little harder to get moving, but getting them in motion will encourage absorption of the hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is an irritant to the gastrointestinal tract, so it typically induces vomiting of stomach contents within 15 minutes of use. If your pet doesn't vomit within 15 minutes, you can give him a second dose. However, if another 15 minutes pass and he still hasn't vomited, don't give him a third dose of the hydrogen peroxide. It's time to call your veterinarian. Veterinarians use specific drugs to induce vomiting in pets – apomorphine is used for dogs, and xylazine is used for kitties. These medications are by prescription only and can only be administered by a veterinarian. They can be much more effective at inducing vomiting than hydrogen peroxide. So if your pet isn't throwing up from your at-home hydrogen peroxide treatment, you should seek veterinary care immediately. This article is a must read to keep our pets safe from being poisoned.
I know pet owners are aware of some but do familiarize yourself with all listed. Please also watch your children with the family pet. By Dr. Becker Earlier this year, the Pet Poison Helpline released the top 10 household items that caused pet guardians to call for poison consultations during 2013. According to the Helpline's Associate Director Ahna Brutlag, DVM, the list of cat toxins didn't change from last year, but a new item made it to the top 10 list for dogs: canine joint supplements. These supplements have "limited toxicity" according to Dr. Brutlag, but a few cases of liver failure following a massive overdose have been reported. If you know or suspect your pet has ingested or been exposed to a toxic substance, call your veterinarian, a nearby emergency animal hospital, and/or the 24/7 Pet Poison Helpline at 800-213-6680. You can also download their Pet Poison Help iPhone app here. Top 10 Dog Toxins in 2013 1. Chocolate Chocolate contains theobromine and caffeine, which are both classified as methylxanthines. These compounds can cause hyperactivity, increased heart rate, tremors, and potentially death. The more bitter the chocolate, the more toxic it is. Bakers and dark chocolate are the most toxic, and milk chocolate can be dangerous if ingested in large amounts. 2. Xylitol Xylitol, a sugar substitute common in sugar-free chewing gum and many other products, can cause life-threatening hypoglycemia and liver damage in dogs. 3. NSAIDs Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs like Advil, Motrin and Aleve, can cause GI ulcers and kidney failure. 4. Over-the-counter cough, cold and allergy medications Many of these preparations contain acetaminophen (a painkiller) and pseudoephedrine or phenylephrine (decongestants) and are highly toxic. 5. Rodenticides Rat and mouse poison can contain inactive ingredients that are attractive to dogs. Aside from eating the poison itself, dogs can also become sick from eating a rodent that has ingested poison. Exposure to rat and mouse poison can cause bleeding, seizures and kidney damage. 6. Grapes and raisins These foods, even in small amounts, can cause kidney failure in dogs. 7. Insect bait stations The danger here is primarily bowel obstruction when a dog swallows the plastic shell that contains the bait. 8. Prescription ADD/ADHD drugs These drugs are amphetamines that can cause tremors, heart problems, seizures and death in pets. 9. Glucosamine joint supplements These supplements are often flavored to appeal to dogs. Overdoses usually produce nothing more dangerous than diarrhea, but in rare cases, liver failure can result. 10. Oxygen absorbers and silica gel packs Oxygen absorbers are found in packages of pet treats, beef jerky, and other consumables, and they contain iron that can cause iron poisoning in dogs. Silica gel packs are the small white packs found in new shoes, purses and backpacks. Top 10 Cat Toxins in 2013 1. Lilies The variety of lily determines whether it is relatively harmless or potentially deadly. Non-toxic varieties include the Calla, Peace and Peruvian, and typically cause irritation of the upper GI tract. Toxic lilies -- including the Tiger, Asiatic, Stargazer, Casablanca, Rubrum, Day, Japanese Show and Easter lily -- can prove deadly for your cat. Just a tiny amount of any portion of these plants can cause kidney failure. 2. Household cleaners General-purpose cleaners are relatively safe (all-natural products are a much better choice), but concentrated products like drain or toilet bowl cleaners can cause chemical burns. 3. Flea/tick spot-on products for dogs Never use a canine flea/tick product on your cat. Depending on the ingredients in the product, just a drop has the potential to kill a cat within hours. 4. Antidepressants Cymbalta and Effexor topped Pet Poison Helpline's toxic antidepressants list in 2013. For some reason kitties are drawn to these medications, which can cause severe neurologic and cardiac effects. 5. NSAIDs Cats are more sensitive than dogs to non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs like ibuprofen and naproxen. And because kitties are so sensitive, veterinary-specific NSAIDs should be used with extreme caution, if at all. 6. Prescription ADD/ADHD medications Just as with dogs, these drugs, which are amphetamines, can cause tremors, heart problems, seizures and death in cats. 7. Over-the-counter cough, cold and allergy medications Many of these preparations contain acetaminophen (a painkiller) and pseudoephedrine or phenylephrine (decongestants). Acetaminophen is especially toxic to cats – it damages red blood cells and causes liver failure. 8. Plants containing insoluble calcium oxalate crystals Peace lilies, philodendron and pothos can cause oral and upper GI irritation, foaming at the mouth and inflammation when ingested. 9. Household insecticides If you use insecticides on your indoor plants (which I definitely do not recommend, since they are environmental toxins), make sure to keep your kitty away from plants after application until the products have dried or settled. 10. Glow sticks and glow jewelry Many cats enjoying gnawing on glow sticks and glow jewelry. These items contain dibutyl phthalate, a chemical that can leak out and burn your cat's fur and tongue. http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2014/05/30/top-10-pet-poisons.aspx?e_cid=20140530Z1_PetsNL_art_1&utm_source=petnl&utm_medium=email&utm_content=art1&utm_campaign=20140530Z1&et_cid=DM45514&et_rid=536412148 Photo by Dorea Fowler Ruby survived a car accident while riding unrestrained, but not without lingering side effects, including partial paralysis on her left side. Whole Dog Journal Canine automobile safety harnesses are not all created equal; here’s the only one we’d use. By Lisa Rodier As Dorea Fowler and her two daughters were nearing the end of a road trip from Atlanta to Florida, Fowler allowed her 7-year-old Boxer, Ruby, to move up and sit unrestrained in the front passenger seat of her Toyota Highlander. They were traveling uneventfully down the highway at about 65 mph, as they had for hundreds of miles, when suddenly Fowler’s SUV was struck from behind. Upon first impact, the Boxer stood up; then Fowler’s vehicle spun out of control. As the car rotated, Ruby went airborne, flew across Fowler’s lap, and hit the driver’s side window with her head. The car then hit a guard rail head on. The vehicle’s air bag and seat belts protected Fowler (and her two children), but Ruby rocketed forward into the windshield between the driver’s door and air bag. When the vehicle came to rest, Ruby was lying on her side across the front seat. The Boxer was still alive, but rigid as a board, indicating to Fowler (an RN) that Ruby had a serious head injury. Obviously, Fowler is not the only person to drive with her dog unrestrained in her car; more than 80 percent of American pet owners admit to playing the same sort of vehicular Russian roulette with loose dogs in their cars. So far, there are no laws that require pets to be protected with car safety restraints, though at least one state (Hawaii) has made it illegal to drive with a pet on one’s lap – more due to the danger of distracted driving than to protect the dogs. Dogs can certainly distract their drivers in any number of ways in a car, but it’s even more common for them to be a completely innocent victim – indeed, the most vulnerable victim – in a car accident. Mandatory seat-belt laws mean that most drivers and human passengers today are belted into cars, but few dogs receive this protection. Because most of them are unrestrained, our canine companions can become deadly projectiles in an out-of-control car, injuring passengers or themselves. Frequently, they are thrown out of the car (often through a window), and in pain and panic, bolt from the scene of an accident, never to be seen again. Prevention Options Most restraint systems, including crates, car seats, and harness/seat belt combinations, can prevent our dogs from distracting us while we’re driving. Financial considerations, convenience, the size of our dogs, as well as the size of the vehicles we already own, may dictate that a safety harness and seat belt are the best of those options for simply keeping the dog out of the driver’s way. We’d be willing to bet, however, that all of us dog owners who are willing to use a car restraint system for our dogs expect whatever system we use to do more than simply prevent our dogs from being distractions; we also absolutely expect that they’ll keep our dogs safe in the event of an accident. Which is why it was so upsetting to read a recent study by a nonprofit, independent pet-safety advocacy group, the Center for Pet Safety (CPS), which reported that very few of the products intended to protect our dogs in cars are capable of doing so. Most of the car safety restraints included in the CPS tests exhibited “catastrophic failures” – in other words, they either broke, or failed to secure the crash-test-dummy dogs in simulated crashes. Accident Sparks a Passion for Safety The CPS was founded by consultant and long-time pet safety advocate Lindsey Wolko after – what else? – an incident on the road with her English Cocker Spaniel in the car. Wolko is one of the few dog owners who regularly uses a car safety restraint on her dog. She had chosen her dog’s restraint harness carefully, after scrutinizing lots of product labels, to make sure the restraint she chose was intended to not only keep her dog from being a distraction while Wolko was driving, but also protect the dog in the case of an accident. The harness did indeed prevent her dog from hopping around the car. But it wasn’t until Wolko had that near-miss at rush hour on a major metropolitan highway that she realized the harness didn’t perform the way she thought it would. Cut off unexpectedly by another motorist, Wolko slammed on the brakes. The jolt caused her dog to rocket off the back seat, crash against the front seat, and become entangled in the harness’s long tether. Wolko’s dog survived, but was seriously injured. Shaken and distraught, Wolko began investigating canine car-safety restraints from the perspective of a safety expert, rather than just a consumer. She soon discovered that U.S. manufacturers are not required to crash-test pet travel products before bringing them to market. Further, she learned that there were absolutely no independent standards for any tests that companies conducted to crash-test their products; while some manufacturers claimed their products were crash-tested, this information was useless to consumers (and their dogs) in the absence of test standards. Independent Testing
A woman on a mission, Wolko set out to create a standard for testing pet-safety restraints. She founded CPS, dedicating the organization to companion-animal and consumer safety, and set a goal for CPS to conduct rigorous crash testing on pet-safety products using realistic crash-test-dummy dogs. In partnership with Subaru of America, CPS engaged the services of MGA Research Corporation, an independent National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) contract testing laboratory, to conduct crash testing of canine car restraints. CPS developed specially weighted and designed crash-test-dummy dogs for use during testing: a 25-pound “terrier-mix,” a 45-pound “Border Collie,” and a 75-pound “Golden Retriever.” Crash-test Candidates Initially, Wolko focused her attention on products whose manufacturers claimed, in advertising or product labeling, that the product had undergone “testing,” “crash testing,” or offered “crash protection.” During her research, Wolko had found that most of the manufacturers who made a claim regarding crash testing referenced the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 213, “Child Restraint Systems.” This is indisputably the most rigorous standard that can and should be met by any car-safety restraint. But Wolko also discovered that many of the manufacturers who conducted crash testing tested only the “medium” size of their product, rather than the complete size range in which the product was offered. She also found that, frequently, a manufacturer’s definition of “passing” crash testing was subjective. Most importantly, Wolko’s research revealed lots of product marketing claims that were largely unfounded. After exhaustive research of the market, Wolko found 11 brands of harnesses that met her criteria – products whose manufacturers made claims of crash testing and protection. These 11 would be the first products she tested. Preliminary Testing Each crash test costs about $2,000 to conduct, and the independent tests were going to be paid for by CPS and Subaru, not the manufacturers of the products. So, in order to potentially rule out any obviously inferior products prior to crash testing, CPS conducted preliminary strength testing of the harnesses. Products purchased at retail outlets by CPS were placed on a solid dog-shaped form and pulled until the harness broke. If a particular harness withstood a five-second hold period at a specific load, then it was deemed acceptable to move on to the crash-testing phase. A failure – in any size harness – would knock that harness brand completely out of consideration for further testing. Only seven of the 11 harness brands passed these static tests and advanced to the crash-testing phase. Crash Testing In general, CPS’s concept of the ideal harness would be one that, during impact, would keep a dog on the seat, control rotation of the dog (both fore and aft, as well as side to side) to help stabilize the dog’s spine, and keep adjacent passengers safe. CPS determined the following to be critical variables as to whether a harness was a “Top Performer” in these respects: - Does the harness exhibit a catastrophic failure such that the test dog becomes a projectile or is released from the restraint? That is, does the harness break, freeing the dog to launch? - Does the test dog stay on the seat for the entirety of the crash test? Even if the dog remains attached to the restraint, falling off the seat increases her risk of further injury. - Does the harness have a tether that prevents adjustment to a length of six inches or less? Long tethers are dangerous, allowing the dog to launch and/or becoming wrapped around the dog’s body or limbs, leading to the risk of further injury. “Zip lines” are equally dangerous. - Does the testing indicate uniform performance across all sizes? The CPS used the data gathered in its tests to develop and publish its recommended standards for canine car-safety products: CPS-001-014.01, the Companion Animal Safety Harness Restraint System Standard. At the end of the day, six of the seven harnesses included in the tests failed to meet the CPS-001-014.01 standards. One manufacturer requested (and paid for) a re-test of its product, but only after making one change to their product’s application on the test dog dummy. The maker reversed the position of a carabiner on the harness, which improved the test result; however, it’s worth noting that the original position of the carabiner was set according to the product’s label directions. (Note: The CPS wouldn’t disclose the name of this product or manufacturer, because the manufacturer refused to sign a formal licensing agreement with CPS.) Sole Survivor The only product to pass the CPS tests and earn the CPS designation of “Top Performer” in the CPS 2013 Safety Harness Crashworthiness Study was the Sleepypod Clickit Utility Harness, which retails for about $90. During testing, all three sizes of the Sleepypod Clickit Utility Harness offered by the company at the time (size XS has since been added) prevented the launch and controlled the rotation of the test-dog dummy; in addition, the dog remained on the seat after impact, and there were no equipment failures. The Utility’s three-point connection is similar, conceptually, to the three-point seat belt required for humans by federal law. The harness is meant to be used in the rear seat (no front-seat usage!) where two side straps latch onto baby-seat anchors (which are standard equipment on all vehicles manufactured after 2003). The third connection point is via a seat belt, which is passed through the back of the harness. Sleepypod uses a specific measurement – the total length of a figure eight around a dog’s neck and torso – to indicate which size of its product a dog should wear. The company recommends that small dogs (those who measure less than 31 inches using the measuring protocol, seen in the adjacent illustration) do not wear a harness, but are crated in a crash-tested and well-secured pet carrier instead. Very large dogs, too, are not considered good candidates for the Sleepypod Utility Harness; it’s not recommended for any dogs who measure more than 60 inches and/or weigh more than 75 pounds. (The heaviest test-dog dummy used in the CPS tests was 75 pounds, so the harness is untested at weights greater than that.) Wherein We Try The Sleepypod Utility Harness Atle, my Bouvier, is a few inches shy of the maximum measurement, and weighs in at just under 75 lbs. Getting the harness on him was pretty easy; it simply slips over the dog’s head, with two adjustable straps criss-crossing the dog’s back, and then buckles on each side. The “vest” of the harness itself is nicely padded, and hugs the dog’s upper torso. In my opinion, it’s not too bulky or overbuilt, and surprisingly lightweight; it can even do double duty as a walking harness. It’s easiest to clip the two side straps to the vehicle’s anchors first, put the harness on the dog, load the dog into the car and ask him to sit, and then attach the straps to the dog’s harness. The dog’s behind should be snug against the seat when he is sitting up. The final step is to thread the car’s seat belt through the back straps of the harness and click the latch plate into the latch. Securing Atle into my vehicle with the Utility Harness for the first few times took a little elbow grease. My first attempt at stuffing him into the back seat of my sporty station wagon left me sweaty and a bit frustrated, and he was more than a little unsure about the whole enterprise. After a bit of struggle, and repeated out-loud readings of the instructions provided with the harness, we retired to the house for a break and for some further research online. That’s when I discovered that Sleepypod’s website features slightly better instructions for attaching the two side straps than the ones included with the harness. (It turns out that a hook on the side strap needs to pass through a D-ring on the harness, then clasp onto another smaller ring.) For my next attempt, I loaded Atle into our van’s rear seat. First I lengthened the straps as far as they could go, and then tightened them once they were attached to the car anchors and the harness. The van seat is a little deeper than the wagon’s, and has more head room, which helped. I will say that trying to maneuver a large, hairy dog into a tight space can be difficult; ideally, he needs to be in a sitting position and perfectly positioned between the car’s anchors in order to clip the side straps to the harness. Once I got Atle clipped in, he was able to move fairly easily into a down position and seemed to relax. But then I found that sitting up became the bigger challenge for him. I don’t know how my dog would fare in this rig on a long trip, but my first impression is that the product probably would work best for dogs who were not quite as large (or hairy) as Atle. With Atle pushing the limits of the size L, he might not be the best candidate for this particular model. Next Best Instead, we might consider a newer Sleepypod safety harness model, the Clickit Sport. This product was not yet on the market when the CPS conducted its 2013 tests, but has been tested by the CPS since, and was awarded a five-star crash-test rating. The Sport is available in three sizes and is priced at $70. The Sport does not utilize the side straps that gave Atle and me palpitations; instead, the dog is secured only with the car’s seat belt, which is passed through the harness behind the dog’s back. Atle and I managed this easily even in the back of my station wagon. Sleepypod’s cofounder Michael Leung commented on the differences between the company’s Sport and Utility harnesses: “The Sport was designed with ease of use in mind, and is light-weight. The frontal crash tests prove that it is as safe as the Clickit Utility.” Note that the Utility adds much more lateral control of the dog, and would add more protection for a dog in any situation beyond frontal collisions (such as side impacts). An XL size of the Sport model (for dogs up to 90 pounds) is currently being tested by CPS and should be available by the time this article is in print. The Rest of the Story As I mentioned earlier, the Sleepypod Clickit Utility Harness was the only one of the seven harnesses that were included in the 2013 CPS crash tests that earned a “Top Performer” designation by CPS. One other product included in the tests exhibited catastrophic failure in both of its sizes; they broke during the crash tests. The remaining five candidates all failed in some category. Complete results can be found on the CPS website, along with some fairly disturbing video of the crash tests. CPS invited all of the manufacturers of the products included in the tests to attend the crash tests, though only some accepted the invitation. How did the manufacturers who attended respond? “For some manufacturers, it was eye-opening and a very collaborative effort,” Wolko says. “Others didn’t appreciate our interpretation of crash protection. After the public response to the testing started to affect some of their product sales, many stopped speaking with CPS. There are several brands that applaud our efforts, and they are the ones working to consistently improve their products.” Wolko cautions, however, that CPS recently discovered that some manufacturers are purposefully using the CPS video from testing to mislead consumers by proclaiming, “Yes, we’ve crash tested!” even if the product didn’t pass all of the CPS tests. CPS has also found manufacturers touting other connection options that were not tested but marketing the product as “safe.” It’s a classic case where buyer must be aware; don’t blindly believe the claims, but ask for substantiation. CPS hopes to run another harness test in 2015. Hard Lesson Remember Ruby, the Boxer mentioned at the beginning of this article? She survived her unscheduled flight around the inside of her owner’s car in the accident, but suffered a spinal-cord injury and mild brain injury. After months of intensive rehab and a $9,000 veterinary bill (paid for by the insurance company of the driver who caused the accident, who admitted to texting while driving), Fowler describes Ruby as still a “little wonky,” in that the dog still suffers from partial paralysis on her left side, and does not have full bowel control. Nonetheless, Fowler keeps her active and Ruby still loves to hike and run in the grass. And how has car travel changed for the duo? After the accident, Fowler purchased a harness for Ruby and the dog now rides in the back of Fowler’s new SUV, secured in place. Upon learning that the harness she has been using did not pass the CPS crash tests, however, she said she’d be buying a newer one immediately. “It’s worth the money and emotional assurance to know that I’m doing all I can do to protect my dog!” Picture of the vest and how to measure your dog. I have used my certified pure essential oil blends to calm my dogs when we travel and I have found them to be very effective. Below are some other suggestions.
All-natural remedies to calm your dog while on the road. By Lisa Hanks Does your dog turn into a whimpering pile of mush whenever you try to take it for a drive? Traveling is daunting when your best friend throws up on the upholstery, then attaches itself to your brake foot. If you approach the problem holistically, however, travel for the two of you can be downright fun. Ask yourself these questions: Is your dog healthy? Be sure it has no illnesses affecting its ability to travel. Stress, fearfulness, anxiety and disorientation can be caused or aggravated by a number of health problems, including chemical or hormonal imbalances and food allergies. "Biochemical imbalances, hypothyroidism, etc., can all impact negatively on the animal's ability to cope with stress," said Suzanne Clothier, a holistic trainer in St. Johnsville, N.Y. "Such problems should be addressed and corrected." Why is your dog becoming carsick? If you have eliminated the obvious, the cause could be stress, sensitivity to movement, fear or more subtle problems. Clothier recommends a chiropractic checkup. "I've seen dogs who were poor travelers change dramatically when they were adjusted," she said. "It seems that subluxations [incomplete dislocations] in the neck, particularly at the atlas [the first vertebra of the neck], can contribute to motion sickness or uneasiness, possibly due to inner-ear disturbances." Your dog may also be reacting poorly to different water or unfamiliar food. Carry a supply of both from home. Make sure your dog has plenty of water in the car, and provide additional water about every two hours at rest stops. Also, as with humans suffering from motion sickness, it may help if the dog sits facing forward and has access to fresh air. Some veterinarians recommend withholding food six to eight hours before travel, but this can be difficult if your dog is used to being fed in the morning or requires regular meals to keep its body systems balanced. Instead, try a motion sickness preventive. Holistic-minded pet owners use ginger to soothe tummy turmoil. Ginger capsules, bulk dried ginger or ginger extracts are available at health food stores and some supermarkets. Read the directions on the label and reduce the dose proportionally, according to the weight of your dog. For example, according to a general dosing rule from herbalist Gregory Tilford of Animal's Apawthecary in Conner, Mont., if the dose on the label is for a 150-pound man, divide by the weight of your dog say 25 pounds, which equals one-sixth the dose on the label. If you need to increase the dose, do so in increments of 10 percent, but go no higher than 50 percent above your starting point, Tilford said. You can mix the dried or powdered herb into a small amount of food or add the extract to a little water and administer it with a dropper two to three times daily. If you are unsure of the dosage, ask a veterinarian experienced in using herbs on animals or an herbalist experienced in dosing animals. Is your dog comfortable traveling in its crate? Some crave the comforting close quarters of a crate; others enjoy riding unfett ered. Some dogs prefer to see where they are going; others do not. Watch your dog's reaction. Perhaps you should cover the crate, leaving plenty of space for ventilation. Or try a wire crate or a seat belt and harness set. Whichever method you choose, don't let your dog have the run of the car. If you stop suddenly or have an accident, an unsecured dog could crash into the windshield or be thrown around the interior of the car. In addition, a loose dog could cause an accident by interfering with your driving. Your dog should be in a secured crate or tucked into a special harness that buckles into your car's seat belt system. The seat belt-and-harness set works best for dogs heavier than 25 pounds; smaller dogs should be safely placed in a crate. Is your dog afraid of the car or crate? If your dog is afraid of entering the car or uncomfortable being in a crate, you may need to go back to a gradual, positive introduction, combined with therapies and remedies to reduce your dog's stress during retraining. T-TEAM, a calming massage treatment, or even affectionate stroking and petting can calm your dog before, during and after car travel or a session with the crate. In addition, calming flower remedies, such as Rescue Remedy or Five-Flower Formula, work well for some dogs. "Rescue Remedy is good for some; for others, it doesn't work," Tilford said. "Some individual flower remedies work in certain situations. You may need to consult a flower essence practitioner for additional advice on the best remedies for your situation. Administer these in con-junction with any training sessions according to the directions on the label in your dog's water, rubbed on its ears or muzzle or as part of a misting spray." Finally, calming herbs can de-stress training sessions. Tilford recommends valerian, skullcap and oat straw as extracts, dried or fresh. Some veterinarians recommend chamomile, but Tilford believes the herb may not be the best choice. "Chamomile might work; it's hard to say. It would be best in a tea, added to some salt-free broth." Steep about 1 teaspoon of the dried herb or 3 teaspoons of fresh herb in about 1 cup of hot distilled water for 10 to 30 minutes. Strain the herb and add 2 teaspoons to 2 tablespoons to broth two to three times daily. To accustom your dog to travel and its crate, start gradually and keep the session positive. Make the crate attractive by adding your dog's favorite blanket and toy. Toss a treat into the crate, encouraging your dog to retrieve it. Do this a few times a day. When the dog seems comfortable going into the crate, feed it its meals in the crate with the door left open. Once the dog is accustomed to this, close the door while it is eating for brief periods. Gradually extend the time you leave the dog in the crate with the door closed. Repeat this process until the dog is comfortable being in the crate for a few hours. Months before your trip is scheduled, accustom your dog to car travel. Lure it into the car with a treat and praise it highly for entering. (Leave the door open.) Do this daily for about a week, then put the dog into its crate or seat belt harness for short periods. Next, take short car trips that end with an enjoyable event, such as a romp in the park or a hike in the woods. Slowly extend the length of the trips, until the dog is comfortable spending several hours traveling with you. How well trained and socialized is your dog? Is it used to strangers and new situations? Did you take it to puppy kindergarten and obedience classes? If your dog does not respond readily to the basic commands — Sit, Stay and Come you may need professional help resocializing it. Dogs that enjoy new faces and places are less likely to be stressed and more likely to be happy travelers. Ask your veterinarian and friends for referrals to a dog trainer. How well do you travel? Are you tense and edgy when driving? Do you yell at other drivers and shake your fist at delays? You may be unknowingly transferring your stress to your dog. Clothier counseled one tense owner, whose dog traveled hunched fearfully, to relax and sing as she drove. "To my delight, she wrote me immediately, noting that as she began to pay attention to her own attitudes while driving, she discovered that indeed she was holding her breath, clenching the wheel and sitting rigidly," she said. "She relaxed her hands, focused on her breathing, sat back more comfortably and began to sing whatever songs popped into her head. To her amazement, her dog first watched her with a raised eyebrow, then visibly relaxed, curled up on the seat next to her and slept peacefully all the way home. With the Holiday Season upon us don’t forget that there are certain hazards for pets, including overeating, and eating people food that can be potentially toxic. For example:
· Grapes and raisins are often featured in holiday recipes, and both can lead to kidney failure for your dog. It is thought cats are also at risk, however, your cat isn’t likely to try to eat either of these fruits. · The artificial sweetener xylitol, which is often found in gum, mints and other candies, and baked goods, is also toxic to your dog. It can cause internal hemorrhaging and liver failure. · The chemical in chocolate (and cocoa) that is toxic to pets is theobromine, a caffeine-like compound. And the darker the chocolate, the more theobromine it contains, so be especially careful when using bakers and semi-sweet chocolate. Espresso beans dipped in chocolate can be a double dose of poison since they contain both caffeine and theobromine. · Uncooked baking dough containing yeast, if ingested by your dog or cat, can “rise,” causing serious discomfort as well as potential rupture of your pet’s stomach or bowel. · Be sure to keep foods fresh from the oven or stovetop, especially meat drippings, soups, gravies and other fragrant hot liquids, away from the edges of your stove and countertops to prevent a scalding accident. · Ham, turkey and fish bones can splinter as your pet chews them, causing them to stick in the throat or tear the tissues of your dog’s or cat’s intestines. · Around the holidays, your kitchen garbage can may seem like a smorgasbord to your dog or cat. Paper and string soaked in meat or other food juices is one hazard. Raw meat infected with bacteria or parasites is another. Make sure all your trash containers are either out of reach of your pet or have secure fitting lids. I waited most of the night on Christmas Eve a few years ago while my son’s dog had to expel her stomach after eating a good portion of a large pan of Ghirardelli Brownies. It was a scary experience for as stated above the dark chocolate and higher concentration of cocoa are the really dangerous products. The dog was lucky that we heard her get into the pan of brownies from the counter and had access to an emergency clinic close to home. She was lucky to have such good care from the clinic for she could have died with the amount she had eaten if she didn't get it out of her system within two hours. Another concern is candy and gum with xylitol the artificial sweeteners that people have in their purses and around the home. Many times people don’t realize how easy a pet can get into their purse and eat these poisonous products. Our beloved pets have to be watched just like young children. Two Common Household Objects That Can Poison Your Pet
June 21, 2013 | By Dr. Becker According to the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center, more than 180,000 pets were exposed to potentially toxic substances in 2012. And for the fifth year running, topping the list are prescription human medications. Top 10 Pet Poisons in 2012 · Prescription medications (for humans). The Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) fielded 25,000 human prescription drug poisoning calls in 2012. The top three culprits were blood pressure pills, antidepressants, and painkillers (opioids and prescription NSAIDs). The most common scenario: a pet owner drops a pill on the floor and the dog grabs it right up. · Insecticides. While only 11 percent of calls to the APCC were for insecticide poisoning, over half of all calls involving cats are related to insecticides. The APCC advises pet owners to always read the label before applying any insecticide directly on your pet, in your home, or in your yard. · Over-the-counter medications (for humans). These drugs accounted for more than 18,000 calls to the APCC in 2012. Medications included acetaminophen (Tylenol), ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin), and naproxen, as well as herbal and other types of supplements (for example, fish oil). Many of these products smell or taste yummy to pets. · Veterinary products and medications. These products accounted for about six percent of poisoning calls in 2012. Flavored pills and liquids make it easier to give supplements and medications, but it also makes them more enticing to pets. · Household products. This category includes everything from logs for the fireplace to cleaning agents, and accounted for more than 10,000 calls to the APCC last year. · People food. Over five percent of 2012 cases reported to the APCC concerned pets ingesting people food. One particularly problematic substance is xylitol, a sugar substitute that is highly toxic to dogs. · Chocolate. Chocolate remains the number one toxic people food pets ingest – the APCC received over 8,500 calls last year for just this one substance. · Plants. The APCC received over 7,000 calls about animals eating potentially toxic plants. Cats lead dogs in this category. You can refer to this excellent ASPCA resource for more information. · Rodenticides. About four percent of calls to the APCC last year were related to rodent bait poisoning. You can learn more about the dangers of rodent bait here, here and here. · Lawn and garden products. Fertilizers and other lawn and garden products accounted for about 3,600 calls to the APCC in 2012. Dog Dies After Ingesting a Penny In a very sad story out of Colorado, a little dog lost her life after eating a very common household item – a penny. Pennies produced after 1982 contain zinc, which is toxic to dogs and cats. Sierra, a West Highland White Terrier, was always attracted to coins, according to her owner, Maryann Goldstein, in an interview with CBS Denver. In fact, as a puppy, Sierra ate 32 cents and underwent surgery to remove the coins. This past March, Sierra became very ill and Goldstein took her to the vet. X-rays showed a quarter and a penny in her stomach. The penny, though smaller than the quarter, was the bigger problem because of its zinc content. The reason pennies are so dangerous is because gastric acid in the stomach eats into the penny very quickly, releasing the zinc and causing it to be absorbed by the body. Zinc inhibits the production of red blood cells and the longer the exposure to the zinc, the greater the damage to red blood cells. Zinc toxicity symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, lethargy, jaundice, and red-tinged urine. According to Dr. Rebecca Jackson, a staff veterinarian at Petplan pet insurance: "Zinc toxicosis is more commonly seen in dogs, but cats can get sick from eating pennies, too," warned Jackson. "Be sure to bank your spare change before curious pets can get their paws on it -- and if they do, get them to the emergency vet immediately." Smelly Socks and Shoulder Pads According to Dr. Karen Halligan, director of veterinary services for the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, Los Angeles, hundreds of pets require surgery every year to remove articles of clothing and similar items from their stomachs and intestines. There was the toy Poodle that swallowed a tube sock. Dr. Halligan made the dog vomit and removed a foot-long sock from the tiny dog. Dirty socks are among the most commonly ingested items of clothing. Your pet really loves your socks because they smell like you. There was also the Great Dane who required multiple surgeries after eating shoulder pads. While these stories may seem funny, the fact is non-food items such as these can be very dangerous if ingested by a pet. Fabric items don’t appear on x-rays, and within about 48 hours, a pet who has swallowed a piece of clothing will have symptoms like vomiting, loss of appetite and lethargy. If ingested cloth is removed early, normally the pet has a full recovery. But if your dog (or much less commonly, your cat) eats something you aren’t aware of and time passes, the intestines will begin to die from lack of a blood supply. Sometimes the only option to save the pet is to remove the intestines. Surgeries to deal with odd things pets swallow are costly – at least $2,500 to $5,000 according to Dr. Halligan. Left untreated, an ingested cloth item can result in a fatal case of dehydration or peritonitis caused by bacteria invading the stomach. If you suspect your pet has ingested something toxic, please contact your veterinarian or the Animal Poison Control Center’s 24-hour hotline at (888) 426-4435. Summer is here and that means hot weather so protect your dog from the heat.
Here are five things from Cesar Millan you can do for your dogs in hot weather:
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